High Fashion Report – Meggings

Meggings

Early last week I took a visit to the London College of Fashion and I have to admit, I felt incredibly inferior on arrival. After all, these young, avant-garde and incredibly tall creatures are the next generation of the fashion industry. If that’s not enough intimidation to cause your senses to collapse into a puddle of gibbering goo, there’s always the fact that some of the student-fashionistas make Lady Gaga look like another high-street window shopper.
The major trend I spotted circulating amongst the boys was meggings or man-leggings teamed with huge, loose fit, cotton Tees. It seems the skinny jean has been given the boot and replaced by a whole new level of skinniness. I must admit that I do love this look: it’s simple, easy, and practical, being that most of these boys spend a lot of their time in a studio. The downside: all of these guys were very tall and very slim and I definitely think it’s a trend only to be donned by the long legged “iron-board-boys”
OK, I know this trend has been ridiculed more often than Hitler but (this is where I get on my ‘Fashion Equality’ high horse) if certain girls can go out in skin tight jumpsuits, badly crafted from cheap net curtains, with nothing but two plasters keeping them dignified and lawful, then us boys can wear spray-on-tight leggings. However, oversized upper wear is essential. No one needs to see your (in the words of my Nan) meat and two veg clad in shiny, skin-tight spandex. Ever! *ahem* moving on.

One of the forecasted trends for next season’s menswear is Man-leggings under shorts. Cargo, denim even micro-suit shorts. When I first saw this future trend, I couldn’t help thinking I had seen it before. After a short while I discovered why. In 2007 Sam Sparro wore ripped, denim shorts over new-rave print Meggings in one of his music videos. In fact I think he debuted digital print leggings way before they hit the shelves of PRI-MARNI and went global, but I think it’s only in the last couple of seasons that menswear has acquired this new element of fun and that’s why it is catching now and didn’t three years ago.

I have also seen guys wearing Man-leggings as part of an uber-skinny suit or with the oversized, low-cut T and blazer ensemble. In-fact the Senior Commissioning Editor of British GQ recently conducted a personal experiment and decided to don a pair of black sequined leggings conjured up by Belgian designer Martin Margiela as part of a casual day suit.

“the response was fantastic. This must be how an X Factor winner feels the morning after the vote. Pretty girls smiled, tourists stopped me for a shoulder-hugging snap, builders wolf-whistled and colleagues cheered (mostly).”

I think he looks awesome [Below far right], and if he strolled into my office I would definitely be a cheerer. I mean come on it’s so much more fun than wearing black suit pants:

I haven’t yet ventured into the world that is the megging, not through any intention to avoid it but for the pure fact that I can’t seem to find a pair of shoes that don’t make me look like I’m just about to go water skiing… maybe it’s also a trend just for guys with small feet? [I think the meggings pushed up under shorts shown above would be the way round this? Ed]

Men’s High Fashion Report – Corsetry

Editor Note: Today is a two part report on what is going on within the world of men’s high fashion. Now I know these will definitely not appeal to everyone who comes here to read this site, but there are masses of males all across the world who wear avant garde and high fashion garments on a daily basis. If you love fashion as much as I do, then you should still enjoy seeing everything that is happening within it, whether you agree with it or not. We live in a world of narrow minded individuals and I think we should all open our minds to new ideas and styles. Enjoy guys…

So this is an item that’s beginning to trend in the high fashion world, one that I expect you all to start wearing, *ahem* The Male Corset.
Yes that’s right, whale-boned, rib-crushing, corsets. It took women hundreds of years to be relieved from the crippling pain of corsetry only for it to pass over
into men’s fashion. However we’re not talking Mr Pearl severity.
The male corset is a trend that the late Alexander McQueen began to create, and is now slowly taking flight.

The Trend Setters

AW10 saw John Galliano take very feminine, satin corsets and place them over masculine tailored suits, giving a sort of 1950′s bondage effect. However not all male corsetry looks are so reaction provoking, most looks have maintained the corset idea but adapted it for a more feasible look; one which I predict will catch on in high street menswear.
Giuliano Fujiwara placed belts over knitted, girder style corsets. Snug however not exaggeratedly cinched, keeping the outfit masculine and dark.
For A/W 10 Lanvin has teamed belted waists with oversized, knitted cardigans and tees, whilst Damir Doma used the same cinched waist over voluptuous layers, again creating that modern twist on the 40′s and 50′s silhouette:

I spotted this look in a window display last summer, and a few guys at London Fashion Week teamed oversized trenches with wide leather waist belts. I can see this filtering down to the high street, seeing as Topman has already introduced dressing gown style wrap cardigans into their menswear collections.
Raf Simons, created harness-like belts, wrapped around nautical, minimal suits in keeping with the clashing of contradictory eras look. I wear something similar to this style, it is very simple yet effective (in fact, I use leather bracelets to create a mock-harness):

Comme Des Garcons, who normally creates quite theatrical designs, has produced a sort of waistcoat slash life jacket. Keeping the waist band in the same style and colour as the rest of the suit but with the addition of life jacket style, plastic buckles for fastening.

Obviously I don’t really expect you to start crushing your ribs to the point of oxygen deprivation and some will even find this trend absolutely ludicrous. But you can easily see how this may filter down into our favourite high street stores. I think the commercial variation we will see are belted, chunky knit cardigans and coats. Although a modern take on the professional suit would be a nice change, practicality will probably prevent us from wearing a cinched waist in the office all day. A heavy lunch could prove fatal!
I personally wouldn’t mind losing a couple of ribs and a bit of oxygen for one of those John Galliano pieces.

The Finishing Touch

Picture this: you are stood in the middle of a glistening department store, surrounded by heritage tweed jackets, softly draping shirts, strong tailored blazers, casual printed tees and polished leather shoes. But do you notice the paisley print socks in the corner, the silk pocket square sat next to the shirts or the leather bound notebook on the counter?
I think it’s true to say that, when confronted with such a wide and diverse selection of pieces to wear, we can often become distracted by more stand out, statement garments such as the shirt, jacket or trousers. However, in doing so, we miss out on utilising the impact of those finer details, the finishing touches that can turn a good outfit into a great, well thought out look.

The Sock

The trend for rolled up trousers has been on the fashion radar for a few seasons now and, whilst many of us are making the step to lose those extra few centimetres, we often forget that this leaves us open to a whole new area of attention; the sock. An afterthought and bi-product of dazed draw fumbling for many a man, the sock, when utilised correctly, can bring together key sections of an outfit and reinforce the colour scheme of a look. There are 3 main ways in which to style the sock:

1. Matching accessories – A tip once whispered by our very own Ashley Cover and one that works best with brighter colours. Matching your socks with your belt, as opposed to your trousers or shoes, can add that extra pop of colour and draws attention to the lower half of your body. This look is best paired with simple, neutral coloured trousers.
2. The patterned sock – Especially handy in to liven up a simple outfit, patterned socks in complimenting colours can offer a fun and interesting element to a relaxed outfit. However, I use the word ‘patterned’ to mean paisley, zig zag or spotted and in no way do I endorse the wearing of garish shapes or favoured cartoon characters.
3. Colour Pop – Bright, contrasting socks can really draw focus to footwear and add a much needed flash of colour to a look. Use this tip sparingly and avoid clashing two opposing bright colours together.

Length of the sock is a matter of choice but as a rule you should ensure your sock always meets your hem. We can do without any unnecessary flashes of leg hair.

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

The Pocket Square

So, we’ve established that socks are more than just a black and white area, literally, but the finishing touches don’t stop there. One of my favourite accessories is sadly one which has gone into declined amongst the modern man, the elusive pocket square. A Pocket squares provide a touch of gentlemanly swarve and is the perfect accompaniment to a crisp white shirt or classic tweed blazer. If wearing with a white shirt, opt for a contrasting brighter shade to give a hint of colour amongst a chest of white. On the other hand, if wearing with a tweed or coloured jacket, be sure to choose a complimenting colour or pattern, perhaps in a shade lighter or darker, to avoid overcomplicating things. Both Vintage stores and Ebay are a great source of pocket squares, particularly those of the patterned variety.

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

Everyday Items

Whilst socks and pocket squares may put you on the right track to adding that something extra to an outfit, what about the everyday items we never even knew could be used as fashion accessories? Like many people, working in fashion I am bound to be carrying my notebook and diary 24/7. But who says I can’t use this to my advantage? There is nothing worse than seeing a well dressed man carry a tatty paper-bound notepad and, in a time when the man clutch debate is at its height, carrying a diary or notebook can offer a midpoint between style and femininity.

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• 

So, next time you open your wardrobe or walk into a store, take a second to think about how you could work some of the finer details into a look. After all, it’s the little things that make and big difference. And who says you have to stop here? You could think about broaches, tie pins, belt buckles… The list is endless, as are the possibilities.

Simon Spurr Double-Breasted Suit

  

© Bergdorf Goodman

The Basics

• Company: Simon Spurr
• Price: Jacket: $1,975; Pants $625
• Official Site: Spurr.tv

83 The AskMen Take

For Spring 2010, Simon Spurr resurrects the double-breasted suit from the grave and into the spotlight. His concept is made from a combination of wool and silk, and is perfectly tailored to fit any man’s body. The outlines of the jacket are sleek and trim and the fit in the legs are loose and wide. This is an interesting shape for a modern suit because many of today’s trends lean toward a slimmer look.

The best way to visualize Spurr’s vision this season is to picture James Bond sipping a cocktail on the Amalfi coast combined with the flamboyance of Miami Vice.

80 Uniqueness

Despite a hefty price tag, Spurr’s double-breasted suit stands out for its sharp cut. One of the biggest challenges to purchasing tailored-fit menswear is nailing the size, but Spurr’s eye for precision -- sharpened over many years as the design director for Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label and Men’s Black Label -- takes the guesswork out of finding the perfect-fitting, all-purpose suit.

Read more

85 Durability

Considering most of us are still penny -pinching, the demand for value and durability is stronger than ever. Spending your hard-earned cash on true quality is a smart investment right now. Spurr’s double-breasted suit will last you for ages because it’s made from an excellent wool and silk. More importantly, its true test for durability lies in its classic design, proving once and for all that it will never slip out of men's fashion.

Timeless garments should always measure high on your style barometer because premium clothing -- like prime real estate -- will always be in demand.

BOSS Black Slim-Fit Three-Piece Suit

 

 

The Basics

• Company: Hugo Boss
• Price: $1,045
• Official Site: HugoBoss.com

78 The AskMen Take

On a recent trip to Hugo Boss’ website, we were surprised to see that it spruced up the joint. We never expect much from fashion houses -- especially European ones -- in the way of online shopping. It seems to be eternally allergic to the idea that some people may prefer to be hermits, or perhaps more likely, have a hankering for finely tailored clothing yet live in Wyoming where there isn’t even a Gap (sad, but true).

The e-tailing section of the site opened for business earlier this year -- a vast improvement to a homepage that once teased with a glittery marketing campaign but didn’t offer squat. Now, it's worked out some of the kinks and managed to create a navigable website just in time for the holidays. How convenient -- especially for snagging a seasonably sensible three-piece suit.

82 Uniqueness

We remember trying on a Hugo Boss suit years ago and wondering why the hell it was so big. After all, wasn’t this the backbone brand for young up-and-comers? Then, we thought about how many guys in the under-35 Wall Street set actually wear a suit well. Very few.

Fortunately, Hugo Boss seems to have caught on to this gaping gap between perception and reality by introducing a slim-fit silhouette to its bread-and-butter black label line. The higher armholes, trimmer torso and slightly shorter jacket length combine to create a suit that, well, should probably just replace its regular fit.

Read more

74 Durability

You pay a premium for a three-piece suit, but it offers options. Each piece works on its own or in combination with the others. Ditch the vest one day, pair it with dark jeans the next, or wear only the flat-front trouser with your usual blue button-down -- a complement to the fabric’s barely-there, sky-colored stripe. And speaking of fabric, Hugo Boss uses a virgin Italian wool for a feel that actually warrants the pretty price.

men hot

Although seemingly innocuous with its name deriving from a New Zealand heritage story, the Eden Park brand and company is actually French with a decidedly anglophile stance, conveyed most recently from its latest range for SS11.
In an interesting twist, the company, upon first impression, immediately smacks of recently devised concept-brands like Hollister or Jack Wills, but with pricing and aspirations more akin to the likes of Hackett; an esteemed fashion house with traditional roots.  This is with particular reference to its almost faux-history, although 80′s and 90′s French Rugby Union legend, Franck Mesnel, is at the heart of the company and has been attributed to the common use of rugby shirts as leisure-wear – a good or bad association, depending on your particular inclination.
However, mis-transliterations aside (probably more of our own than anyone else’s), it is Eden Park who has secured the formalwear deal with the RFU – for the next 6 years, no less – and moves this particular niche forward with a fusion of the very best in English and French styles and tailoring.
The continuation of bold colours – often contrasting, but somehow and somewhat understated, still, is clever combined with an educated use of seersucker for practical purpose during the upcoming season.  Shorts are certainly order of the day – or season – accessorised with scarves and boating jackets.
It appears that the collegiate and jock aspired themes of recent trend has no hope of going anywhere other than forwards, and Eden Park are certainly well placed to lead the way for their peers.
Pricing

• Jackets and blazers range from £155 to £320
  
• Trousers range from £108 to £148
  
• Shorts range from £75 – £130
  
• Shirts from £75 – £115

Eden Park stores

Richmond: 3-5 Golden Court
Tel: 0203 166 4031

Belfast: 613 Lisburn Road
Tel: 028 9068 7622
Cardiff: Capitol Shopping Centre (Ground Floor), Queen Street
Tel: 02920 345 478

How to Dress Like Don Draper

Tips for achieving a classic style without looking dated

Share

| Print Article | Email to Friend
As ad exec Don Draper, John Hamm is a modern day style icon — even though the show is set in the 1960s. To help you rock the best of his classic vibe, award-winning costume designer Janie Bryant shares tips on how to dress like Draper without looking as if you just stepped out of your father's closet.

Don't Be a Slob
Men in the '60s didn't wear their clothing baggy. Always opt for shirts and pants with flattering lines that contour the body, Bryant says. "In Don Draper's world, a man should always look put together."

Get a Custom Fit
Find a good tailor and bring an armload of stuff from your closet. "Most men buy their suits and shirts too big," says Bryant. "Have what you're not wearing taken in to give it a new life." Then, when you're trying new items on, go for a smaller size than you normally would. You'll end up looking leaner, and the suit will feel as if it was made especially for you.

Get Your Swagger On
Once you've got Draper's duds, you then need the attitude. "Use clothes to help you exude confidence," says Bryant. When you own your look, everyone around you knows it.

Embrace Color
"The '60s were all about rich browns, grays, and blues," says Bryant. "Mixing those colors into your wardrobe doesn't have to be difficult. You probably already have them in your closet now. You just need to bring them out." Teal and mustard yellow also capture the feel of that era. A good move: buy a skinny tie (about 2¼ inches wide) in one of those classic shades.

Pay Attention to the Details
Accessories are key to pulling off the Mad Men aesthetic. Hats, tie bars, pocket squares, and watches provide a way for men who wear suits everyday to show originality. The must-have accessory: a slick pair of cuff links.